ECOgardener Blog

We all want a lush, verdant lawn that's full of life but for most homeowners, maintaining the lawn feels like an uphill battle! The green, lush grass often die, which give way to unsightly brown spots, bare areas and often, receding lawn. It’s normal for the lawn to recede in some areas but what’s causing the problem in the first place? More importantly, what steps should you take to solve this persistent problem once and for all? The first step is knowing why some areas are patchy than others:

If you are seeing prominent patchiness in shady areas, the cause of the problem is the lack of sunlight. Like most plants, grass needs sunlight to thrive and though some grass varieties do well in shady or partially shady areas, others are not as resilient. Other causes of grass patchiness are obstacles that block the sunlight. If you are seeing patchy areas behind trees, the tree is keeping the sunlight from reaching the vegetation behind it.

How often do you water your lawn? Some grass varieties are quite thirsty and if you don’t hydrate your lawn often or deeply enough, the grass will wilt and die! Drought is also grass’ common enemy so time your watering well during the summer season to prevent dehydration.

Too much of a good thing can be bad for the lawn and that includes water. Overwatering could drown the grass roots, which will inevitably lead to plant death. Stick to your watering schedule on normal days and water often only when the climate is hot and dry.

Do you lead your dog outside to relieve himself? Is Fido out on his own exploring the outdoors for long stretches of time? Has your dog developed the habit of peeing outside? If the answer to these questions is a resounding yes then this might be the reason why your once verdant lawn turned patchy or ridden with yellow or brown spots! You see, dog urine is packed with nitrogen, a chemical that in excessive amounts, kill grass over time. Dog urine is as potent as a commercial nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer.

Just like plants, grass is prone to pests and an uncontrolled infestation could lead to a serious lawn problem. Don’t wait for obvious signs of an infestation because these mean that the problem has become widespread. Check the lawn regularly for pests or consult an expert.

The over-application of fertilizers could affect grass growth. Too much of the stuff could kill the grass. The same thing can be said if the lawn is nutrient-deficient. Grass needs a balanced combination of minerals to thrive. Do not apply fertilizers if the grass does not need it. Keep an eye on your soil’s nutrient profile and stick to a schedule when amending the soil.

If your lawn is full of thinning or bare patches then it’s best to reseed these areas to keep your outdoor space looking lush and neat. Thankfully, reseeding is not only fast and easy, it’s also inexpensive. It will, however, require some upkeep until the first and/or second mowing.

Before reseeding, do your homework. Check what kind of grass works best in your region and microclimate.

To reseed your lawn, start by clear the area of dead grass and unwanted garden debris using a rake. Check for grub damage because if there is an ongoing infestation, you have to eliminate the pests first before you could reseed your lawn. A sure sign of a grub problem is when a patch of grass lifts up easily. This means the roots of the grass are damaged by the nibbling pests.

Once the pests have been eliminated, work on the soil to boost the air circulation. You can use a rake if your soil is not too compact. But if the soil is as hard as a block of cement, you may have to use a core aeration tool to drill holes into the ground so the ground becomes easy to break.

Add about an inch of loamy soil or compost then mix with the soil using a rake. Do not add fertilizers just yet. Apply only once the grass has been established. Now sprinkle the grass seeds across the area that you’ve prepped for reseeding. Rake the seeds into the soil lightly to a depth of about half an inch. To help the seeds bond with the soil, level the surface ground with a roller or your hands/feet. Until the seedlings sprout, you have to protect this area from birds.

You want to keep the soil moist but never wet to encourage faster germination. Lightly water the area until the seedlings sprout to about 2 to 3 inches. Give the newly reseeded area about two weeks or so before the balding patches are completely covered. Because the seedlings are still sensitive to harsh weather conditions, cover the patch with a sheet of burlap if the weather is too hot.

The newly grown grass may look greener than the rest of the surrounding lawn so give it time to grow slightly longer until the patched area blends in with the surrounding landscapes. Sometimes, you may have to wait for more than a month before mowing the new grass so the color of the grass becomes even.

If your lawn is full of bare areas and you need a quick and easy solution, try this trick: fill the bare areas with grass sod. Grass sod is widely available and a roll of it is fairly inexpensive. In addition, a roll of sod is more than enough to fill several bare spots, which is perfect if you are covering a large expanse of space.

To cover a receding spot with grass rod, cut a roll of sod into patches that go about 2 inches beyond the bare patch you are filling. Place the patch over the bare spot and with your shovel; press the sod patch into place. Water the patched up area regularly until the grass takes root. Within a week or so, the patched area would blend into the surrounding grass, making it indistinguishable from the rest of your lawn.

If a patch of grass could be lifted easily like a rug or if you are seeing birds picking at the lawn in the mornings, you might have a pest problem in your hands. Dealing with pests starts by knowing what kind of pest is invading your lawn then using the right treatment to contain and eliminate the problem.

For example, if your lawn is infested by leatherjackets or crane flies, you can use nematode to take care of the problem. If the lawn is overtaken by chinch bugs, you might have to use pesticides to contain the damage. Just make sure to use less toxic solutions like diatomaceous earth or insecticidal soap.

It’s hard work to keep the lawn healthy after a severe case of patchiness so it pays to look for subtle signs of a problem before it worsens. Keep your lawn in tip-top shape with these tips! Sign up for our weekly newsletter to get the freshest gardening resources straight from your inbox.

Water supports all of the plants’ bioprocesses and systems. The moisture level in your garden soil will affect the growth of your plants, especially if the climate is hot and dry. Dehydration could weaken plant health that’s why it is so important to check the soil for visible signs of dryness.

Checking for soil moisture may sound simple enough but there are imperceptible signs that your plants need immediate hydration. In this guide, we are outlining ways of checking for soil moisture:

Perhaps the simplest way to check if your garden soil is in dire need of hydration is by looking at the ground. If the soil appears dry, light-colored and compact then it means you have to water the soil more.

Do note, however, that some soil types are light in appearance regardless if they are moist or not. Our advice is to familiarize yourself with different soil types and get to know the kind of soil you have in your garden.

If your garden soil looks muddy, squishy or mossy then it is a sign that the ground is waterlogged. Although mossy soils are a good environment for growth, the risk of root rot is too great for some plants. If such is the case with your garden soil, consider installing an irrigation system to draw excess water away from your plants.

Checking the soil moisture beyond visual inspection involves digging into the soil using a hand trowel or a sharp spade. You want to slice straight down into the ground and dig down to 2 feet deep. Make another slice, about an inch in front of the first slice then with your hands, grab the soil slice you just made. Lay the soil slice on a piece of white paper or fabric then check the dark areas of the soil. If the soil slice is light, it is dry, if it is dark, the soil is moist. You could use a ruler to measure just how far down the moist layer reaches.

Another way to check the soil by feel is to get a handful of soil. Give the soil a squeeze to check for moistness. If you squeeze and the soil sticks together then it is moist. But if the soil crumbles or it remains in a loose pile as you squeeze then the ground needs more water. Now drop the soil and brush the soil off your hands. If your palm looks clean then the soil is extremely dry.

Just insert the probe into the soil and read the results. It should not take long to check the moisture level, about a few seconds if you are using a digital probe. If you are using a traditional scale probe then check the arrow move and stop at a specific number on the scale indicator.

Checking a large expanse of space means you have to check the soil moisture using the probe in various areas of your outdoor space. You’ll have to spread out within the area to get a general assessment of your soil’s moisture level.

Just to make sure your soil is in tiptop shape, always check for moisture if the soil appears dry or too wet. Install an irrigation system so your soil remains hydrated at all times. Be sure to keep the moisture level at level 5 because a vast variety of plants could grow and thrive at this level. If the probe reads a number that’s lower than 5 then water your soil.

Apart from a soil moisture probe, you could also use tensiometers and electrical resistance blocks to determine the moisture in the soil. These tools are often used for agricultural applications but they could be used for a small garden as well.

A Time Domain Reflectometry or TDR is also used to check for soil moisture but the method is on the pricey side. However, the results are incredibly accurate. If you are using this tool, remember that the sensor will require regular recalibration. The data is also difficult to interpret for most growers.

• Checking the soil moisture is important because water serves as a solvent and carrier of nutrients that are vital for plant growth. The moisture in the soil is so important in agriculture that the yield of a crop depends on the amount of water available rather than the deficiency of food nutrients.
• Water regulates soil temperature and it promotes healthy soil. It also supports the water requirements of the billions of microorganisms that live in your garden soil. Water also helps in the biological and chemical processes of the soil itself, allowing the soil to support plant and animal life.
• In addition, water acts as a nutrient itself. In fact, water is one of the main building blocks of plant growth. It is also an essential part of photosynthesis that allows plants to harness sunlight to create their food.
• It is critical to monitor soil moisture early in the season or during the growing season to maximize crop production. For most growers, simple visual observation and hand feel are enough to check for soil moisture. But for people who grow crops for a living, using agricultural tools is the better strategy. However, some of these tools are either expensive or will require training for proper application.

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Too much of a good thing can be bad and this applies to many things, including watering your lawn. Excess water affects healthy grass growth. A waterlogged lawn could pave the way to the spread of pests and diseases. In addition, overwatering could drown the grass plants, causing unsightly, patchy areas or yellowed vegetation.

Sadly, many gardeners have no idea that they are overwatering their lawns! The fact is, an overwatered lawn is not just the result of an unattended sprinkler. It is also caused by rains, wet summers, even humidity.

Different grasses have different hydration needs. For example, warm season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia need about ½ to ¾ inch of water every 1 to 3 weeks. On the other hand, cool season grasses like perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass need regular watering every four to five days.

These are the tell-tale signs that you’ve been overwatering your lawn:

Thatch refers to the partially broken down plant materials and roots that form a dense mat or layer on the soil surface. Usually, beneficial organisms break down thatch but overwatering could drown these critters.

When thatch is left to build up, plants and grass develop shallow root systems. This is due to the limited levels of oxygen that reach the roots. Thatch literally chokes plant life. It also inhibits the evaporation of excess moisture, which increases the risk of fungal disease and insect pests. Apart from keeping tabs on the amount of water you use to hydrate your yard, you could remove thatch with a power rake or a rotary mower.

Fungi thrive in warm, moist environments. This is the reason why fungal growth is a common problem in an overwatered yard, the excess moisture creates the perfect growing environment for destructive fungi. Red-orange colored grass is a sign that the lawn is stressed and overwatered. This discoloration is caused by the rust fungus.

Anthracnose and brown spots are also common in wet grasses. While a fungal disease could be contained with chemical fungicides, it’s much better to prevent the problem from happening in the first place to preserve the health of your lawn as well as the microorganisms that live in it.

Some weeds thrive in over-watered lawns such as smooth crabgrass and yellow nutsedge. The problem with weeds is that they steal nutrients from other plants and grasses. And if the weeds grow tall and thick enough, they end up creating shaded areas, inhibiting grass from harnessing sunlight for food. In addition, some weeds develop shallow rooted clumps that spread on the soil’s surface. Apart from preventing overwatering, pull up weeds as soon as you see them to keep your yard tidy and weed-free. Be sure to moisten the soil 6 to 8 inches deep; don’t go beyond that to inhibit weed growth.

A waterlogged yard makes the ideal habitat for most insects and not the beneficial kind. The problem worsens once the yard becomes heavily thatched; it turns into a breeding ground for pests like imidacloprid and Bacillus thuringiensis. These pests could attack weakened or stressed vegetation. Armyworms and cutworms, in particular, love nibbling at the base of grass blades. Grubs, on the other hand, would feed on the grass roots, causing grass to dry out, wilt, and die.

Does the ground squish under your feet when you walk on it? If the ground feels spongy or if you are seeing puddles or standing water collecting in low-lying areas of the lawn, you went overboard with the watering. The problem with excess water pooling in the yard is that the nutrients from the soil are washed away. When the nutrients in the soil have been depleted, the grass will turn light green to yellow. If this happens, you have to enrich the soil with a pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each year.

If this is a common occurrence in your yard, you need to build an irrigation system to eliminate standing water. If it’s rainy, hold off on the regular watering and do it only when needed. Aerating the soil is also a great way to eliminate excess water and encourage healthy grass growth. You can do this by simply pulling up plugs of dirt all over the lawn. As you work the soil, the water seeps deep into the ground, banishing persistent puddles and standing water.

When the ground is overwatered, the open spaces within the soil are filled with water. This forces air out of the ground, which eventually depletes the oxygen in the soil. If your grass has shallow root systems then they are more vulnerable to the repercussions of an overwatered yard. With weakened roots, the plants and grass become susceptible to diseases and insect damage.

Worse, weeds would start sprouting because they thrive even in wet soils. Eventually, weeds would take over the yard, stealing nutrients from the grass and plants. Unfortunately, the weeds that thrive in wet soils are often the ones that are aggressive to spread and difficult to control due to their deep root systems. And since these types of weeds have deep root systems, pulling them by hand takes a lot of work.

If that's not enough, overwatering could also render some lawn treatments ineffective. For instance, amending the soil with fertilizer becomes useless if the yard is overwatered. The excess water will literally wash all your hard work away! This will make lawn maintenance very expensive for you.

Developing and sticking to proper watering habits is paramount to keeping the yard healthy. Develop a watering schedule and always look for signs of over-watering prior to watering the yard.

Irrigation systems have yet to take certain factors - such as wind speed, soil moisture, humidity, and the type of lawn you have – into consideration so there is no guarantee that overwatering will be prevented even if an irrigation system is in place. Be proactive in terms of your watering habits and do not depend on your irrigation system completely.

If you have an irrigation system, set the watering early in the morning just before the sun comes up. Lawns need at least an inch of water a week. During the summer season, the lawn will need 1 to 1½ inches of water a week.

Do not leave the sprinklers on for long stretches of time. Modern sprinkler systems could detect soil dryness and will only release water when the lawn needs it.

We recommend watering your lawn early in the morning so the sun could absorb the excess water as the day progresses. Do not water your lawn when the sun is high because capillary pressure may inhibit absorption. Avoid watering the lawn at night unless it’s dry and/or windy because the excess moisture could promote the spread of fungal diseases.

Water your lawn deeply but infrequently. Infrequent watering is better for the lawn than over-watering. As long as the lawn is well established, the yard won’t suffer much if left under-watered. Established lawns tend to go dormant at certain seasons and they start thriving again once the rains come. When you do water the lawn, be sure that the water is reaching the sub-layers of the ground. This will encourage deep root growth.

Do not water the lawn unless you are seeing subtle signs that the grass needs more water. But don’t wait until the grass has wilted before doing something about it. Depending on the weather, water every three to ten days.

Being proactive in your lawn watering tasks is not only good for your lawn, it’s also good for the environment. To get the latest gardening tips and helpful resources, subscribe to our weekly newsletter right now!

It's a fact of life, some plants can kill you. And if you have pets, children or both, safety should be your top priority. You know how it is with kids or pets; endless exploration and adventuring ensue whenever they’re outside. This increases the risk of accidental poisoning.

We may not be able to protect our loved ones all the time but at least we could keep the garden 100% safe for playing or relaxing. Apart from never keeping your guard down whenever your pets and/or children are playing outside, here are some of the toxic plants that you must never grow in your garden:

Lily of the Valley, so beautiful with its dainty, bell-like flowers and bright green foliage. This perennial plant is no doubt gorgeous and fragrant but be warned, it's highly toxic to human beings and animals alike. Lily of the Valley is teeming with 40 different types of cardiac glycosides, highly toxic compounds that are powerful enough to send a grown man to the ER.

The flowers, leaves, stems, and berries of Lily of the Valley are all toxic. Accidental ingestion could lead to headaches, drowsiness, nausea, vomiting, irregular heartbeat, and skin rashes. Severe poisoning without immediate treatment is fatal.

Rhubarb appears innocent enough; it's a popular ingredient in pies, after all! But that's what makes rhubarb dangerous, we're all too familiar with it as a vegetable. Don't make the mistake of eating the leaves.

Rhubarb leaves are high in toxins that could affect the kidneys, including oxalic acid. Since the vegetable was marketed as safe during WWI, many people were poisoned by rhubarb leaves! High doses of the toxins could lead to kidney failure. There were cases when accidental ingestion of Rhubarb leaves led to death.

Foxglove, with its pretty bell-like blossoms and deep green foliage, adds a pop of color to the garden but watch out, the plant is packed with toxins. Unfortunately, Foxglove attracts children and pets alike with its vividly colored flowers and berries, which could cause heart failure once ingested. According to Poison Control, eating the berries is much like taking an unregulated dosage of heart medicine.

Almost all parts of the plant contain high amounts of toxins digitalin, digitonin, and digitoxin in them, including the leaves and stems. Accidental ingestion could lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, irregular heartbeat, and bradycardia.

Although Wisteria is not toxic to humans, it's dangerous to pets, including dogs, cats, and horses. This climbing flowering plant produces pods and seeds that are toxic to pets. Some of the signs of poisoning include vomiting (sometimes with traces of blood), dehydration, and diarrhea. If you suspect that your pet has been poisoned by Wisteria, take your furry friend to the vet immediately.

Also known as Dumb Cane, Dieffenbachia is a popular houseplant because of its striking, white-speckled leaves. It's so easy to maintain and propagate too! However, it's not the best houseplant to get if you have a child, a pet, or both.

The plant has needle-like crystals of calcium oxalate, a toxin that shuts down the airways. Ingesting the plant tissues could cause the tongue and mouth to swell up. Even brushing against the plant causes mild skin irritation. Ingesting the plant tissues could become fatal if not treated right away.

Daffodil is a popular ornamental plant prized for its bright yellow blossoms. But if you have pets that love to dig around and explore the garden, you need to reconsider growing Daffodils in your garden. Daffodils contain a toxin called lycorine. This poison is not lethal to human beings but it is dangerous to pets.

The poison is concentrated on the bulbs of the flowers and accidental ingestion could cause diarrhea, vomiting, and nausea. In severe cases of poisoning, the toxin could cause convulsions, tremors, and cardiac arrhythmia.

The beautiful Hydrangea, known for its striking clusters of blue, purple, pink and white blossoms, is a lovely flowering plant that adds a touch of romance to the garden. Sadly, the entire plant, including the flower buds, is quite toxic to pets and children.

All parts of Hydrangea contain traces of cyanide. Accidental ingestion could cause shortness of breath, dizziness, fainting, and a rapid pulse. Severe cases of poisoning could also lead to convulsions and death.

With its fragrant, delicate blossoms and deep green leaves, Oleander is a prized ornamental plant. However, it is also one of the most dangerous plants for children and pets. The entire plant, including the sap and nectar, is poisonous.

Just a small amount of the poison is enough to kill a baby or a toddler. Apart from affecting the digestive system, the poison from Oleander will target the central nervous system and circulatory system, causing everything from slowed heart rate to seizures, coma, and in some cases, death.

Larkspur belongs in the buttercup family of flowering plant and is grown for its graceful, vividly colored blossoms. This plant is low maintenance so it’s a favorite beginner plant among newbie gardeners. However, if you have kids or pets, opt for a safer alternative. You see, all parts of the Larkspur plant are toxic to pets and children. The leaves and seeds contain the highest levels of alkaloids.

Alkaloids are toxins that cause vomiting, nausea, painful burns in the mouth and a slow heartbeat. If you suspect that a pet or a loved one has been poisoned by Larkspur, seek immediate treatment. It only takes six hours before the effects of the poison become lethal.

Water Hemlock is such a looker with its clusters of dainty white blossoms but it happens to be the most dangerous plant in the US and the whole of North America. It looks utterly harmless but the Water Hemlock is teeming with cicutoxin, a chemical that causes violent convulsions, painful seizures, and in some cases, coma.

The tiniest flower is enough to kill a 550-kilo animal. It's that potent! Everything from Water Hemlock's leaves, sap, and seeds are teeming with the toxins. If you see this growing in your outdoor space, kill it right away.  

It’s common for pretty flowering plants to be highly toxic so do your research if you’re building a flower garden for your kids or pets. Knowing the difference between safe and toxic plants could literally save a life and future accidents. Tune in for more gardening tips and helpful resources by subscribing to our weekly newsletter!

The beauty of growing tomatoes is that the plant could produce a lot of its fruits in a short amount of time. Unlike other crops, the tomato plant is so easy to grow. All it needs is the full sun and regular watering. But if you really want to boost your tomato yield then we highly suggest giving companion planting a try.

We’ve already covered the basics of companion planting here so if you need a refresher, it’s worth a read.

The great thing about tomatoes is it pairs so well with other crops! In some cases, the fruits of the tomato plant become sweeter or bigger when grown side by side the right companion plant. Of course, tomatoes do not work well with all crops so a bad combination might decrease your yield or affect the health of the plant itself. In this guide, we are outlining all the best and worst companion plants for tomatoes:

Borage makes a lovely companion plant for tomatoes because of its ability to repel different tomato pests, particularly hornworms. Used as an herb, this flowering plant could also boost the growth and flavor of the tomato fruits. Some growers say their tomatoes are much tastier when grown side-by-side borage. On the plus side, borage adds a refreshing cucumber-like flavor to salads and summer drinks!

Marigolds, with their cheerful golden yellow blossoms, never fail to add a dose of cheerful color to the garden. And when grown alongside tomatoes, you could expect a plentiful harvest! Research shows that marigolds protect tomatoes from pests including root-knot nematodes, tomato hornworms, whiteflies, and thrips. Some growers even say that marigolds protect tomato plants from rabbits and other large animals. Because the tomato plant and marigold thrive in a similar growing environment, it’s so easy to incorporate the latter into a vegetable patch.

Carrots and tomatoes go so well together because these crops complement each other in more ways than one. When grown side by side, carrots will improve the flavor of the tomatoes. Some growers are wary of growing these crops together as their roots will compete with one another but if you want sweet, flavorful, delectable tomatoes then there is no better companion plant to use than carrots. If you’re growing carrots and tomatoes, give them a little more space in between. This way, the tomato fruits will grow bigger, not stunted.

Bell peppers and tomatoes make good neighbors because both crops improve each other's flavors. In addition, bell peppers and tomatoes repel nibbling pests. Do note, however, that tomatoes grow tall, which may cast shadow to the shorter bell pepper plants. Be sure that both crops are getting ample sunlight when growing these together.

Leaf lettuce and tomatoes grow well together because both plants inhibit the spread of diseases caused by rot. Lettuce inhibits weed growth that could rob both crops of nutrients. On the other hand, tomatoes deter pests while saving space.

Cabbage and tomato plants do not complement each other at all. Growing these crops side by side could lead to stunted growth. Tomatoes and cabbages tend to compete for space for root growth. Between the two, tomatoes have a harder time to spreading its roots and this leads to smaller fruits. In addition, tomato plants grow tall, blocking any plants that grow too close to the ground like cabbages.

Corn and tomato plants do not mix well because both plants share the same pests, which are the tomato fruit worm or the corn earworm (the cotton bollworm). If grown side by side, these crops would attract nibbling pests and the damage will be more extensive since the worms love corn and tomatoes. And once these nibbling pests get too comfortable, they might end up decimating the entire garden!

Eggplants and other plants that belong in the nightshade family are vulnerable to early and late blight. Certain diseases cause blight, which causes the death of plant tissues. This leads to browning, spotting, and withering of plant leaves. If grown side by side, eggplant, and tomato plants may end up sharing the same sickness, causing blight to build up in the soil and get worse every year. Worse, blight might end up spreading throughout the garden if these plants are grown together.

When grown under a walnut tree, tomato plants will produce smaller fruits. That’s because walnuts produce the chemical juglone, which will cause stunted growth of tomatoes. Any plant from the nightshade family should not be grown near walnut trees. Tomatoes will also wilt quickly when grown near or under a walnut tree because the proximity increases the risk of walnut wilt.

Just like walnut trees, fennel also produces a chemical that inhibits root and plant growth, causing stunted growth and smaller fruits in tomato plants. Fennel is not a great companion for a lot of plants because the chemical it produces affects so many garden plants. We highly suggest allotting a specific area of the garden for fennels. Keep the fennels as far away from other garden plants and crops as possible. The only plant that could withstand the effects of the chemical that fennel produces is dill.

The way that your garden has been laid out will affect the health of your plants, particularly your vegetable garden. That’s why it’s important to know what plants complement each other. Avoid growing vegetables in large groups because this will encourage pests and diseases to spread.

It’s equally important to mix flowering plants with herbs and vegetables so that the pests won’t be able to find your vegetables. The scent of the flowering plants and herbs will also deter or confuse some pests such as nibbling insects.

Some flowering plants have the uncanny ability to attract beneficial insects to the garden. Go ahead and do your research, find the right combinations of plants to grow to ensure a good yield!

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Mosquitos breed so fast that it doesn't take long for these disease-carrying pests to take over an entire property. These critters thrive in moist growing environments, places that are teeming with stagnant water and thick vegetation. If you are not careful, your garden could turn into a cesspool of biting bugs.

Certain types of plants repel mosquitos. These plants won’t eradicate mosquitos completely but they could reduce mosquitos’ population in your property. Here are some of the best mosquito-repelling flowers that you should grow in your garden:

This deciduous shrub got its name for its stunning display of magenta berries during the fall season. The flowers of the American Beautyberry might not be much to look at but the berries attract all sorts of pollinators, particularly birds! American Beautyberry also repels mosquitos thanks to the fragrant oils that it releases, along with other biting bugs. In fact, beautyberry leaves are often used to repel all sorts of biting insects, such as fire ants and ticks, for hundreds of years.

Beautyberry leaves contain callicarpenal and intermedeol, chemicals that are known to repel insects for several hours. If you want to increase Beautyberry’s mosquito-repelling abilities, leave crushed leaves in insect-ridden spots all over the garden.

Catnip is another plant that works so well in minimizing the population of biting insects in and around your home. This easy to grow and even easier to maintain perennial plant emit a citrusy fragrance that biting insects hate. Set a pot of catnip by the windowsill and it will repel pesky mosquitos and other insects.

If you are growing catnip in the garden, plant it in a place where it can be controlled easily. As many mint varieties, catnip is a vigorous grower. If left to grow on their own, catnip will easily overtake a bare space. But if you don’t mind the endless supply of catnip for your pets then we highly suggest growing several pots of catnip in the garden.

Generally, mosquitos hate plants that emit strong scents. Aromatic herbs like basil make the perfect mosquito repellant because 1) it deters most biting bugs and 2) it’s a versatile herb that no kitchen should be without. And basil is so easy to grow, it’s almost effortless. Just set a pot of basil in a sunny spot and that’s it.

To repel mosquitos, you could simply crush a few leaves or rub the leaves against your skin. You could also collect the foliage and burn it like incense (dried and fresh foliage alike). While basil comes in different varieties, lemon and cinnamon basil are the best ones to use against biting insects.

Better known as bergamot, bee balm is a perennial that produce frilly, showy blossoms. And these blossoms are universally loved by pollinators, including butterflies. If you want an easy to grow plant that would add lovely pops of colors to your outdoor space then bee balm is your best bet. The best thing about bee balm? Mosquitos hate them!

Bee balm leaves the air lightly scented with its citrusy, lemony scent, which mosquitos abhor! Just like most plants belonging to the mint family, bee balm is an aggressive grower. As long as you keep the growth controlled then it makes an excellent plant for the patio, porch, and the garden.

Traditionally, citronella is grown to repel mosquitos. That’s basically the reason why products like scented candles, body lotions, and natural insect repellants are infused with citronella extracts. Citronella has a strong lemony aroma that mosquitos find offending so planting a couple of citronella plant is enough to keep these biting insects from breeding.

And get this, citronella plant is so easy to grow. It's a resilient plant that does not require much attention at all. The citronella plant could be planted in-ground or grown in a pot, it does not matter! It will thrive as long as it receives filtered sunlight.

Who doesn't love the mild scent of fresh lavender? Used in many skin and body products, lavender is prized for its healing extracts and soothing scent. And the scent that made lavender so well-loved in the beauty industry is hated by biting insects like mosquitos!

The lavender plant is beautiful because of its graceful foliage and eye-catching periwinkle blossoms. There are many lavender varieties but the English lavender is the most widely grown in North America. This variety will thrive in both humid and cold regions. It does, however, require well-drained soils and the full sun to thrive. Virtually all lavender varieties hate wet soils and standing water.

Lemongrass is used in skincare and body products as well as an herb in cooking. This plant has a mild lemony aroma that mosquitos cannot stand. Lemongrass could also repel lice, flies, and other pests! If you want to give your home a refreshing aroma, then we highly recommend planting several lemongrass plants in strategic areas of your garden. Plant lemongrass along walkways and pathways to enjoy its lovely scent.

Do note, however, that Lemongrass is a tender plant. It cannot stand the cold so it will not survive the winter freeze. That said, lemongrass will grow vigorously when planted in a sunny spot. This plant also loves well-draining, rich soils so amend the soil with natural fertilizers regularly.

Mint is known for its invigorating minty scent, which is why it’s a kitchen staple. This herb is also widely used to repel all sorts of creepy crawlies, including annoying mosquitos. The smell and taste of mint are enough to keep unwanted pests from dropping by uninvited. You could also crush and apply mint leaves on insect bites to ease inflammation and itchiness.

Mint is so easy to grow and it will thrive in-ground or in a pot. Just keep the mint plant away from direct sunlight or the foliage will burn. This goes especially for the variegated types of mint. This plant is quite thirsty so water regularly.

Rosemary is widely used as an herb but in the garden, it is a beautiful flowering plant that naturally repels mosquitos. This herb has a rich, pine-y aroma that goes so well with savory dishes. But the scent is something that some garden insects could not tolerate.

Growing a couple of rosemary plant alone is enough to stave off mosquitos but if you want to cover a large expanse of space, try smoking a bunch of fresh rosemary stems and leaves in an outdoor area. Rosemary is easy to grow and even easier to take care of as long as you water it regularly.

Rounding up our list of plants that repel mosquitos naturally is eucalyptus. Eucalyptus has a minty, slightly flowery scent that could interfere with mosquitos' senses. Just a couple of eucalyptus plants in the garden is enough to discourage mosquitos and other pests such as ticks, midges, and sandflies from breeding.

The eucalyptus plant could thrive in-ground or in a pot. It loves the full sun and rich soils. Eucalyptus plants cannot survive the cold that’s why growing it in a pot is best in cold regions. This way, you could simply transfer the plant indoors once the weather gets too cold. On the plus side, it will repel mosquitos inside the home.

Some plants repel mosquitos because the pungent aromas interfere with the pests’ delicate senses! Imagine filling your garden with these plants and never worrying about biting insects ever again. Tune in for more gardening tips by subscribing to our newsletter. Get the freshest gardening resources and helpful tips straight to your inbox by signing up for our mailing list right now.

Butterflies are some of the most hardworking pollinators in the natural world. If you want your garden to yield more flowers and fruits then your outdoor space must be the ideal habitat for butterflies! The thing with butterflies is that they are fickle creatures. They will visit certain places several times but they won’t stay for long unless they consider these places as their home.

If you want to attract butterflies and you want these pollinators to stay for good then you have to design your outdoor space accordingly. In this guide, let’s talk about the many ways of creating a butterfly-friendly garden:

To make any type of garden insects stay in your garden, you have to provide three things: food, shelter, and safety. If you want to attract butterflies, you need to grow plants that butterflies love. You have to keep your outdoor space safe from butterflies’ natural predators to get them to stay. Butterflies naturally seek areas with heavy foliage to rest and/or sleep.

Diversifying your collection of plants will boost the butterfly population. Brightly colored flowers and flowering plants, as well as pollen and/or nectar-heavy plants, are a favorite of butterflies. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that pollen heavy plants may trigger allergies! Here are some of the many plants that butterflies love:

Garden phlox produces clusters of pretty purple, red, or orange flowers that butterflies could not get enough of! Pollinators of all kind love phlox because the blossoms are chock-full of nectar. This summer flower is low maintenance so gardeners love them too.

Blanket flower is a drought-resistant plant that could thrive in most growing environments, even places with poor soil or dry regions! These low-maintenance plants produce brightly colored, showy flowers that butterflies find irresistible. In fact, most pollinators, including butterflies and small birds, consider blanket flower as a major food source.

Also known as milkweed, butterfly weed is the main food source of Monarch butterfly caterpillar. By filling your garden with milkweed, you’ll be feeding butterfly caterpillars by the thousands! Milkweed doesn't just attract butterflies, it also attracts other pollinators because it produces a lot of nectar.

Goldenrod is a great plant to grow if you want to turn your outdoor space into a butterfly haven because it produces fragrant flowers that are teeming with pollen. Unfortunately, goldenrod gets a bad rap for causing hay fever but it's the ragweed, another flowering plant that looks similar to goldenrod, that's triggering allergies during the summer season.

All varieties of the aster plant family are known for being aggressive pollen producers. And butterflies happen to love pollen! New England aster is a favorite of Monarch butterflies because it produces flowers during the monarch migration. By the time the summer season rolls in, your garden will be full of colorful butterflies thanks to New England aster.

Apart from growing flowering plants, we highly suggest adding a variety of shrubs too. Shrubs add texture and structure to an outdoor space. These types of plants complement flowering plants beautifully too. Viburnum, sweet spire, and elderberry are just a few of the shrubs that you could grow to attract butterflies.

To augment the blooming time, grow a balanced combination of annuals and perennials. This way, your garden will still look lush even in the late summer season. Pentas, cosmos, lantana, petunias, and zinnias are great plants to add to your garden because these will ensure a steady supply of nectar for the butterflies.

Butterflies are fickle creatures, they are mindful of the host plant that they will lay their eggs on. If the conditions aren’t right, the butterflies will nest elsewhere. One way to make your garden attractive to butterflies is to grow plants and flowers that butterfly larvae feed on. If you are wary of caterpillars nibbling on your plants, there is nothing to worry about. Unlike pests, butterfly larvae won’t wreak havoc on the garden. Most plants could survive the nibbling butterfly larvae.

Aster flowers are the perfect food source for butterfly larvae. As younglings, butterfly larvae would feast on the aster flowers’ foliage. Once the larvae develop into butterflies, they will feed on the nectar of the flowers! Monarch butterflies love milkweed because the toxins in these plants discourage predators, such as birds and other insects, from feeding on their young. Passionflower and sweet peas are other flowering plants that attract butterflies.

Butterflies and butterfly larvae have a lot of natural enemies, including predatory birds, winged large insects, and harsh weather conditions. You can create a butterfly haven right in your backyard by building a sanctuary that’s reserved for butterflies!

Butterflies, like most animals, need a safe place away from strong winds, rains, and excessive heat. There is no need to build a fancy home for butterflies, a simple log pile that’s set in the corner of the yard will do! The spaces between the logs are ideal for nesting butterflies. The logs also work as a protective barrier against intense heat, cold, and strong winds. Planting dense shrubs and bushy flowering plants is also recommended if you are building a butterfly oasis. These plants could serve as a pit stop for tired butterflies.

Some butterflies feed on other foods other than plant nectar. And by the time winter season rolls in, nectar becomes scarce. Hackberry butterflies, for example, love noshing on overripe fruits such as pears, peaches, and bananas. The Red-Spotted Purple butterfly, on the other hand, loves fermented beer or molasses. Overripe fruits tend to attract unfriendly critters such as wasps and ants so be sure to replace the fruit regularly so you don’t end up attracting the wrong insects.

Did you know that butterflies get vital nutrients from shallow puddles? This is the reason why masses of butterflies are flocking to muddy areas of the garden. This usually happens during the hottest part of the day when the butterflies are parched from hunting for nectar. Keep your winged friends hydrated by leaving a shallow dish of clean water. Add a couple of flat stones on the middle of the dish so the butterflies have something dry to land on once they take a sip of water.

Pesticides, like any other chemical treatments, do not discriminate. Chemicals will kill pests and beneficial insects alike. Worse, some insecticides and pesticides would disrupt the mating and feeding habits of beneficial insects like butterflies. If you are committed to increasing the butterfly population in your garden, stick to natural insect repellants. If you must, use only pesticides to contain an uncontrolled infestation. Apply the pesticides sparingly and limit the application to the affected area to minimize their effects to the butterfly population.

Attracting butterflies into your garden takes some effort but if you love the idea of seeing your outdoor space exploding in colors from spring all the way to early autumn then try the tips that we’ve outlined in this guide. For more gardening tips and helpful resources, please subscribe to our weekly newsletter!

Imagine having the only green garden in your neighborhood during the cold months. It’s possible to grow a thriving garden even in the dead of winter as long as you filled your outdoor space with cold-hardy perennials, shrubs, and trees!

Cold weather plants are plants that could withstand low temperatures, ice storms, snowstorms, and occasional frosts. Most cold-hardy plants are easy to care for during the cold months as long as the soil can be worked. That said, even the hardiest plants are no match for extended cold, heavy snow falls and deep freezes so be sure that the conditions are still conducive to gardening despite the cold. In this guide, we are outlining the many hardy perennials and tough tropical plants that could survive cold weather:

Generally, plants with USDA cold hardiness ratings of 3, 4 and 5 are the best ones to grow for cold-climate gardening. However, if you are doing this for the first time, we suggest getting plants that are one zone or more cold hardy than in your local region. For example, if you are in zone 5, choose zone 3 and 4 plants. As you gain more experience in cold weather gardening, you could experiment with different plants.

Fall transplanting is best for regions that get mild winters and hot summers. For USDA zone 7 to 10 regions, you have more options as to what plants to grow as long as the said plants are regionally suitable species in the fall. The only exceptions are zone 3 and 4 plants, which won’t be able to stand the hot weather.

The key to making an outdoor space look lush and full of life despite the cold weather is smart layering. You want to start with the smaller perennials in an arrangement, set the medium-height plants in the middle and then keep the tall ones in the back.

A cold climate garden is never complete without flowering bulbs that would bloom during the spring season! Plant spring flowering bulbs like daylilies, tulips, etc., to add lovely pops of color to your garden. It’s also a great idea to grow a nice selection of native plants because these plants have adjusted to your local climate. Wildflowers would look lovely as they gracefully sway in the cold breeze.

Make your garden setup look vibrant with groundcovers. Some perennials are used as ground covers during the cold season for filling in bare areas of the garden. The best spreading perennials to grow during the cold climate are:

Cool climate perennials come in different heights so combine different textures for beautiful results. For example, yarrow has frothy, delicate foliage and blossoms that would go so well with wispy tall perennials like Meadowsweet or foxgloves.

If you are unsure what perennials to add to the arrangement, ask help from your local garden center. Don’t forget to ask what types of perennials are most tolerant of your garden conditions and which ones could withstand the winds, which ones are best grown in sheltered areas, and so on.

Evergreen shrubs give an outdoor space a much-needed boost of color during the cold months. Fruit-bearing shrubs such as holly and Juniper attract all sorts of garden-friendly critters too, particularly birds. Except for evergreens, weigela, and lilacs, most shrubs could be pruned back once they go dormant late in the autumn season.

The quality and temperature of the soil affect the growth of cold-hardy perennials. The roots have to be planted in unfrozen soil to grow and prosper. We recommend transplanting young plants 6 to 8 weeks before the first average date of hard frost.

For growers in the USDA zone 3, fall is not the best time to plant because the soil conditions might not be ideal for transplanting. Also, planting too soon won’t give young plants enough time to grow more resilient roots. Wait until the middle to the late spring season when the ground can be worked into easily. You want to give the young plants enough time to grow their roots before the onset of the winter season.

For new transplants, create a water-holding base around the base of the plants then fill this barrier with high-quality coarse mulch. Mulch the plant beds around the new transplants too to insulate the soil. This will give your plants extra time to grow their roots.

A long, final watering is a must for fall transplants and mature plants in arid climates. Do the final watering after the first hard frost, making sure to saturate the soil completely so the water reaches the roots.

If the plants have stems and leaves that were dried out because of the frost, do not cut them off. Wait until the mid-spring season to cut the dead leaves and stems. This way, the plants could still absorb the nutrients from the dying leaves and stems.

Avoid low spots as planting ground for plants that prefer fast-draining soils. As the snow melts, water will pool into these low-lying areas. The same thing goes for early spring rains; the water will make its way into low areas, which could drown the plants.

If you have tender transplants, which are vulnerable to frost, we highly suggest installing floating row covers for protection. Use a protective barrier that’s light and breathable. You could also cover the plants that are still producing flowers if there is a warning for a killing frost.

Gardening in cold regions has its challenges but with these tips, you can build a gorgeous green haven. Tune in for more gardening tips! Subscribe to our weekly newsletter for the freshest gardening resources and helpful guides.

Composting takes the burden away from landfills; it’s an incredibly effective and eco-friendly way of utilizing unwanted yard waste. In fact, backyard composting will reduce your household waste by a whopping 50% to 75%. Now imagine if all people would turn their garden scraps into compost, the impact to the environment would be astounding, to say the least.

The backyard is the perfect spot for composting because the air circulation and temperature are just right to “cook” the compost. In addition, the backyard’s almost always near a water source, which will come in handy once the compost needs the extra boost of moisture.

If you’d like to make your own compost, there are certain factors that you should consider first. Composting isn’t just about piling on kitchen scraps willy-nilly. There are certain types of scraps that could be used for the compost as well as scraps that must never be added to a compost bin. In this guide, we are outlining the many composting dos and don’ts that you should keep in mind before making your own backyard compost pit:

If you are making a compost pile, it’s better to dig one on bare earth as opposed to using a plastic bin (the latter could be convenient for some spaces, however). Organisms such as earthworms are needed to process the compost heap and make the nutrients available for plants to absorb. Since you are working on bare earth, the earthworms could get into the compost pile easily.

Aeration is paramount to composting. You want to make sure that the organic matter is not too wet, not too compact, or overheating. By turning the compost pile regularly, excess moisture evaporates, compaction is avoided, and overheating is prevented. Turning the compost also boosts oxygen, which will help break down the organic matter.

Compost piles generate heat naturally as the microbes process the organic matter. But too much heat could kill these beneficial microbes, which could affect the decomposition of the organic matter. Promoting proper air circulation ensures that the heat is evenly distributed in the compost, which will improve the quality of the compost pile itself.

Proper hydration is a great way to maintain the ideal range for decomposition. If the compost pile is too dry, the organic matter will not break down easily. It takes about 2 months to 2 years for a compost pile to break down completely. If the compost pile is too dry, the waiting period will stretch to several months. By boosting the moisture level in the compost, the organic matter will break down at a much faster rate. So if it’s possible, always set your compost pile near a water source. This way, adding moisture to the pile will be less of a hassle for you.

What kind of organic matter could you add to your compost pile? A good compost pile is comprised of green and brown materials. Green materials are packed with nitrogen while brown materials are loaded with carbon. These nutrients enrich the soil and promote proper plant growth.

Use different types of organic materials to create healthy compost. For food scraps, add fruits and vegetable peels, eggshells, coffee grounds, tea bags, and nutshells. You could also mix shredded cardboard and newspaper in the compost heap. Yard waste such as grass clippings, houseplants, as well as dried leaves, sawdust, wood chips, and yard trimmings make excellent materials for composting.

Never add pet droppings, dirty cat litter, diseased or infected plants, and chemically treated yard trimmings because these will cause pathogens to spread all over the yard. We recommend pilling the brown layer on top of the green layer. This will help mask the smell of decomposing compost materials and keep flies away.

If you are making compost using a bin, always keep the bin covered. This goes especially if you are mixing food scraps into the compost because these will attract all sorts of pests and animals! When covering your compost bin, be sure to weigh the cover down with cinder blocks or heavy woodblocks.

Contrary to popular notion, not all food scraps could be used for composting. Leftover meats, bones, lard, fish, cooking oil, and broken eggs are not ideal for composting because these food scraps produce a stench that would attract pests like rodents, cockroaches, and flies! Dairy products are not ideal for composting because these foods will produce a bad smell that could put people off or attract pests/animals.

Not all yard wastes are ideal for composting. Diseased plants, weeds, wet grass, and coal ashes are not suitable for composting because these could release pathogens that could harm the health of your garden or yard.

To maintain a healthy compost, the conditions must be right. Excessive heat or moisture could delay the break down of the organic matter. The key is to keep the compost moist and moderately warm, not wet and overheated. We suggest covering up your compost pile with plastic sheeting to keep the temperature and moisture level in check. By covering your compost pile, it’s also protected from the rain and sun exposure. Always protect the compost pile from the elements.

Always check the compost pile for moisture. If it is too dry, moisten the pile. If it is too wet, add more composting material. If you are adding dry materials to your compost, you have to moisten the materials first. Bury the vegetable and fruit wastes at least 10 inches under the compost waste so these will break down efficiently.

If the compost has turned rich and dark in color at the bottom, the compost is ready to use. It will take a while before the compost is ready to use, however. It takes anywhere between 2 months to 2 years but the time it takes will depend on many factors, such as the size of the compost and the conditions that the pile was exposed to.

If the compost smells earthy, it’s no longer producing heat, or it has taken on a crumbly texture with a neutral pH, the compost is ready to use.

Not all insects are pests; some are actually good for the garden. Some bugs prey on invading parasites while enhancing the health of the plant or soil. Beneficial bugs are also an essential part of biological control; these insects could repel pests by using other organisms. By attracting beneficial bugs to your garden, infestations are avoided along with the spread of plant diseases.

In this guide, we are listing down some of the best bugs to keep in your garden as well as strategies to attract beneficial insects in the garden:

Don't let their colorful appearance fool you, ladybugs are predatory insects that will hunt many destructive insects including aphids, whiteflies, and Colorado potato beetles. Ladybugs are beneficial as a larva and as an adult. These insects have a weakness for soft-bodied insects. A mature ladybug could eat as many as 50 aphids in a day!

The problem with ladybugs is that these are flighty creatures; it's hard to get them to stay in the garden. But if you managed to make ladybugs stay in your garden and they laid eggs, the hatched larvae will consume 400 aphids before they enter the pupal stage! If you have a hard time attracting ladybugs, you could buy several at the local garden center and release them into your garden.

If your garden has a serious slug problem then here's one insect that will get rid of these pests in no time at all: ground beetles. Although ground beetles could fly, these insects prefer to stay on the ground, hiding in plain sight.

As nocturnal hunters, ground beetles would scour leaf litter looking for slugs, insect eggs, and larvae night after night. Thankfully, ground beetles are perpetually hungry so they will eat their way into any slug problem with gusto. Apart from slugs, ground beetles love noshing on caterpillars, aphids, and Colorado cutworms.

Green Lacewings are distinct for their slim bodies and delicate wings. Although lacewings are often found gliding silently in the garden looking for pollen or nectar, they are actually aggressive insect hunters during their larval stage. Lacewing larvae would devour all sort of garden pests including aphids, caterpillars, mealybugs, leafhoppers, and whiteflies. These critters would also hunt down insect eggs.

The fun does not stop there; these predatory insects are not above eating other lacewings. Just like ladybugs, green lacewings are flighty creatures and getting them to stay in your garden is a challenge. You could coax these beneficial bugs to take up residence by growing flowering plants. You could also buy green lacewings at the nearest garden center, release them in your garden, and hope that they will stay put throughout their lifetime.

With their striped yellow and black striped bodies, you might mistake hoverflies for honeybees or tiny wasps at first glance. You know they're hoverflies because their movements are similar to that of normal houseflies. As the name implies, hoverflies would zip around and hover over plants before helping themselves on some nectar and pollen!

These insects are voracious hunters the second they are hatched. The larvae could consume over 60 aphids in a day. Hoverflies love soft-bodied insects and they would lay their eggs near aphids and other preys. If you managed to build an established population of larvae, these critters could control up to 80% of an aphid infestation. Hoverflies are so good at keeping aphids at bay, they rival lacewings and ladybugs.

Adult damsel bugs have narrow heads and dull gray to brown, elongated bodies. Mature damsel bugs have wings while nymphs look like adult damsel bugs but they do not have wings. These bugs love slow moving preys and are quite fond of aphids, leafhoppers, plant bugs, thrips, and small caterpillars.

Damsel bugs feast on destructive pests but they leave plants unharmed. These critters are often found in unsprayed alfalfa fields but you could attract them by growing ornamental grasses. If your yard or garden does not have damsel bugs, you could simply collect these bugs in grassy meadows and release them in your garden or vegetable patch.

Braconid wasps are a type of light-colored winged critters that could repel pests in your garden or yard. Depending on the species of Braconid wasps that live in the garden, these critters would attack common garden pests, particularly caterpillars, weevils, and aphids. Their maggot-like larvae would feed on a host from the inside while the adults consume flower nectar and pollen. Braconid wasps may look sinister at a glance but they are completely harmless to human beings.

A female braconid wasp could lay 50 to 200 eggs and once hatched, the younglings would quickly find a host to feast on. You could attract braconid wasps into your garden by growing a variety of flowering plants that produce a lot of nectar. Sweet alyssum, chamomile, feverfew, catnip, and buckwheat are some of the many plants that attract these critters.

Got a severe aphid infestation? The Aphidium colemani is a special breed of braconid wasp that specializes in parasitizing aphids. It could be purchased at a local greenhouse. The Aphidium colemani is often used to contain a widespread aphid problem without using chemical insecticides.

Minute pirate bugs are a type of predatory insect that feed on aphids, spider mites, and thrips. These bugs are so good at controlling pests that they are often used to deter pests in large greenhouses! An adult pirate bug could feast on as many as 20 thrips larvae in a single day. That might not sound incredible but these bugs are quite tiny, about one-fifth of an inch long. Do not let the size fool you though. Pirate bugs will move quickly to eliminate preys.

Pirate nymphs and adult bugs prey on common garden pests. Although these critters would sometimes suck plant sap, the damage they do is minimal. Growing some of the pirate bugs' favorite flowers and herbs is the best way to attract these predatory insects. They love alfalfa, marigold, fennel, and spearmint, just to name a few.

As larvae and adult, soldier beetles are beneficial to the garden. In their larval stage, soldier beetles will feast on cucumber beetles, corn rootworms, aphids, grasshopper eggs, caterpillars, and beetle larvae. As they grow into adulthood, soldier beetle will feed on nectar and then lay eggs. Once the larvae hatch, the cycle repeats itself, ridding the yard or the garden of destructive insects.

Soldier beetles are drawn to bright flowers and are quite hardworking pollinators. You could attract more soldier beetles into your garden by growing marigold, zinnia, golden rod, and other flowering plants. These bugs are quite harmless to human beings. They do not bite nor nibble at plants.

It’s hard to tell if an insect is beneficial or harmful to the garden unless you are a seasoned grower. Our advice is to learn everything that you should know about telling these critters apart. Apart from ridding the garden of pests, most of the predatory bugs that we’ve outlined above are hardworking pollinators so studying up will do wonders for the garden.

All insects are drawn to shady areas that are near a water source. If you want to attract beneficial bugs and make them stay for good, offer some shelter and drinking water. Nocturnal hunters need hiding places, like dense foliage, during the day. A plate of clean water with flat stones in the center (above water) is a terrific way to hydrate your garden helpers! Just be sure to change the water every day so you don’t attract mosquitoes.

Companion planting could increase your yield, improve the health of your garden, and yes, attract beneficial insects. Some beneficial bugs are drawn to certain plants. Lacewings and braconid wasps, for example, love dill and bright, colorful flowers.

Growing different plants and setting these plants near one another is a great way to lure beneficial insects. The plant foliage serves as a shelter from the heat while the nectar and dew nourish tired pollinators. Beneficial insects could also lay eggs on the plant leaves or use the foliage to hide in the presence of predators.

Pesticides and insecticides do not discriminate; these products kill all types of garden insects including the beneficial kinds. Keep your garden as insect-friendly as possible by using natural solutions to control pests. But if you must use insecticides, opt for selective products that target a specific species while leaving other bugs safe.

Attracting beneficial insects will do wonders for the health of your garden. Keep all these tips in mind and see the population of beneficial insects in your garden rise. Tune in for more gardening tips and helpful resources by subscribing to our newsletter.

There is just something so rewarding about growing a variety of crops from seed. And if you’d like to grow your plants from seeds but you are unsure how to start, this guide is for you! One thing to remember is that vegetables are the easiest to grow from seeds. But don’t let this fact keep you from sowing advanced crops in the future.

Growing plants from seed is perfect for people who’d like to hone their gardening skills. Since seeds are more affordable than buying fully-grown plants, you will also save more money when you start from seed. You’ll grow more of your favorite crops too. Seeds come in more variety so if you’d like to diversify, this is the perfect way to do it. Because you are growing the crops from seeds on your own, the crops become more resilient from the start.

Now before we get to our list of easy-to-grow crops, there are certain factors that you have to keep in mind to make your project a success. First is to get to know the pests and diseases that are common in your region. Pests and diseases vary from region to region. Climatic differences could also mean that some crops may be difficult to grow from certain regions. Ask an expert gardener what kinds of crops grow best in your local area.

Beans are, perhaps, some of the easiest crops to grow. Most variations of beans are incredibly beginner-friendly but our favorites are the snap beans or string beans, which grow best in milder climates. If you live in a hot region, we suggest growing lima beans, asparagus beans, and Southern beans.

Some beans are climbers, others, like the bush varieties, are not. If you want to extend your harvest, opt for the pole varieties. Most beans love the full sun and well-drained soil. But even if your garden has poor soil, green beans will find a way to thrive.

Most root crops are easy to grow but beets could be the easiest variety to sow from seeds. Beets are quick crops that do not take a lot of work to grow. Just sow the beetroot seeds in moist soil from March to July. By the time May to September come, you could look forward to a bountiful harvest. Some of the beetroot varieties we love are Boltardy and Boldor.

What makes beets so easy to grow is that they are naturally resistant to common garden pests and diseases. Maintaining beetroots is easy but be sure to keep the soil moist throughout the germination period so the seedlings grow up strong and healthy. Thin out the seedlings after germination, the seedlings are edible.

The crunchy texture and mild, soothing flavor of cucumber make it a perfect ingredient for salads and summer drinks. In warm regions, cucumber seeds could be sown directly into their final growing positions. Just like most vegetables, cucumbers love the full sun and rich, fertile soils.

Cucumbers, in particular, loves warm soils so we recommend planting this vegetable late in the spring season. This gives the soil a chance to heat up. Do note, however, that vines grow quickly but for good measure, plant several seeds to boost the pollination process. Cucumbers produce flowers that need to be pollinated otherwise; the crop could die before they mature.

Lettuce is a fast-growing green, leafy vegetable. It's a cinch to sow so you could start feasting on lettuce within a few weeks. Although lettuce grows so fast, you need succession sowing to ensure a steady supply of fresh greens. Lettuce seeds do not germinate in warm soils (80 degrees F or warmer) so do not sow directly into the soil during the summer season.

When starting from seed, don't forget to soak the lettuce seeds in water for faster germination. Plant the seeds in peat pots a few weeks before the last frost date in your region. Seedlings will need plenty of sunlight so use artificial light. Transplant the seedlings as soon as the soil has been worked in the spring. Lettuce loves well-drained soils that are rich in potassium and nitrogen.

Tomatoes do not require much effort to grow from seeds. As long as the tomato plant is getting enough sunlight, it will thrive in-ground, in a pot, or in a hanging basket. You could grow the seeds in peat pots or use egg cartons or plastic cups, if you have many of these lying around.

We recommend using a seed starter mix to start the seeds strong. Within 1 to 2 weeks of planting the tomato seeds, they should start sprouting. At this point, set the pot in a sunny area and transfer to a larger pot once the seedlings grow. When the tomato seedlings are ready, plant in the garden and make sure to install a structure for support.

Pumpkin is such a versatile vegetable, one that’s easy to grow and maintain too! You could plant the pumpkin seeds directly into the ground as long as the soil is warm and nutrient-rich. Pumpkins are quite greedy eaters so they need all the nutrients they could get from the ground.

Before sowing pumpkins, be sure to give them lots of room to grow. Space out the seeds to give the seedlings more room to grow once they sprout. Pumpkins are always thirsty so water regularly especially during the summer season when the weather is often hot and dry. Pumpkins are prone to powdery mildew so water only the base of the plant, not the leaves.

Before growing pumpkins, be sure that you have a lot of room to spare for these plants. They’re aggressive spreaders. Since pumpkins take a lot of space so they’re not the best plant to grow if you have a small garden.

Zucchini is such a prolific grower, sowing from seeds is almost effortless. You could sow the seeds in a pot or directly into the ground. As long as the soil is moist and warm, the zucchini seeds will germinate in no time at all. Zucchinis are grown best during the summer season because the conditions are just right.

If you are growing zucchinis indoors, start the process six weeks before transplanting the seedlings outdoors. Do not plant too early because zucchini cannot tolerate the cold temperature. Because zucchinis are fast growers, they should be ready to harvest a month from planting. If you want a steady supply of zucchini, try succession planting.

This easy to grow root crop could be planted several times in one growing season. Sowing radishes from seeds is so easy, you could grow these in pots indoors or directly into the ground. You could plant in both the spring and the fall season but when the weather is warm, suspend the planting until it’s cool again.

During springtime, sow the seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the average date of the last frost. What’s important when growing radishes from seed is that the roots must remain undisturbed at all times. That’s why most growers prefer planting radishes directly into the ground. Give the seeds about 12 inches of space apart so the seedlings have more room to grow.

No need to be a seasoned gardener to enjoy fresh vegetables that you grew on your own! These crops are so easy to grow from seeds, they don’t require much upkeep. Found these gardening tips helpful? Tune in for more updates. Subscribe to our newsletter today to get the latest gardening tips and resources straight to your inbox!